Ramadan for non Muslims

I have to admit when Ramadan first started I was excited.  The same way I´m excited for holidays in America, or what it would be like to experience Christmas in Bethlehem, Diwali in India, etc.  Everyone in Jordan was excited, there were major sales going on in all the stores, "christmast lights" or what they know here as Ramadan lights hanging everywhere, it seemed like an exciting time.  I even planned along with my Italian friend Silvia to fast for the first day and then have dinner at Feras's parents house to break our fast and experience a real Islamic Ramadan feast.  The first day came and I knew it would be difficult but I didn't realize HOW difficult.  First of all, I drink coffee every morning, a LOT of coffee so immediately in the morning I was groggy and had a headache from the caffeine withdrawal.  I had a quiz at 9 that morning in my Arabic class which I was having great difficulty with but what could I do?  Ask for sympathy from my Muslim teacher? Some classmates of mine who are Muslim?  Of course it was one of the hottest days of the year, so my hunger and thirst just added to my headache, however I said I was going to fast and I was sticking to it!  I guess maybe I wanted to prove to myself that I'm stronger than I think, and part of the point of Ramadan is to feel for the poor, so I figured it couldn't hurt me to maybe try and feel a miniscule taste of what most of the world goes through unwillingly everyday.  After class I came home and tried to sleep but my head hurt too much....so I just layed on the couch and watched tv until the time came to get Silvia and take the bus to Salt.  We arrived at Feras's and I didn't realize how used to Arab hospitality I've become until that day when we didn't immediately have water, juice, tea, Arabic and Turkish coffee and dates pushed on us as soon as we walked through the door!  It seemed like an eternity but when we heard the prayer call softly and then loudly and Feras said "Ok you can eat now" I drank more water then I think I ever have in my life and then stuffed my face with food so quickly I ended up barely being able to eat because my stomache was so small I filled up so quickly!  It was a very nice relaxing dinner, then Silvia, Feras, Dema (his adorable 7 year old sister) and I went up to the roof to hang out where there lived a baby chicken that Feras's little brother had brought home the other day!  It just lived on the roof by itself.....and it was dyed pink!  It was so cute I held it in my hands for a few minutes and when I went to put it down it snuggled close to me and wouldn't get off my hands.  I was in love!  So I sat with my little chick or "sous" in Arabic for a few hours until we left for home.  The next day I learned my sous had died!!!  Probably from a broken heart since I left him all alone on the roof poor little baby. 

Silvia, Dema, the Sous and I

Feras and Dema

The sous

Fast forward a week later and I am so sick of Ramadan!  Everyone is cranky (justifiably so) during the day, nothing is open, it's impossible to get anything done and no alcohol at all in the country to at least try to cure the boredom!!  Even if you're not a Muslim (and it's perfectly acceptable not to be a Muslim in this country) you're basically forced to fast during the day.  There is almost no restaurants or take out places open, and forget buying a bottle of water and drinking it on the street!  I can do it without problems yes, but it's just really very rude and I don't like to be rude in other people's cultures (or anywhere for that matter!).  Plus everyone is just so.....tired.  19 days to go before "normalcy" (is there such a thing in Jordan?) returns!  On a brighter note, Silvia, Marthe (my new Norweigian roommate) and I have been invited to Feras's grandmothers for our third Ramadan feast tonight so there is something to look forward to!  I never thought in my late teens and early twenties that I would be looking forward to a dinner with no alcohol and strict Muslims so much.....